Part 1: > 1 Year Before
To start, you need to plan and book your climb to the mountain. Ever since the earthquake in 2015, the amount of climbers allowed per day has been reduced to half. So, getting a slot to climb is really really tricky as you'll need to book way ahead of time. My climb was booked 1 year in advanced.
Just Google around the best package available. And try to get a climb around mid year. Do not do year end as the chance of rain is high. I'll share more later.
Basic package will include (This is the one we use):
- The permit to climb
- Hostel stay at Panalaban
- 3 meals at Panalaban
Of course, you can always add on more stuff to improve your trip experience. Additional package can include:
- Hostel stay at KK park (at Timpohon gate)
- Buffet breakfast before the climb
- Buffet dinner after your descend from the mountain.
- Packed lunch for your climb (to be taken at Layang Layang or Panalaban)
- Van ride between KK town and KK park
- Etc
Overall, the climb is:
- Easy. For seasoned climbers
- Average to hard. For city dwellers and keyboard warriors.
What you really need: Determination
What you don't really need: Excessive One Punch Man training.
What you really don't need: Bad luck with rain juju.
Step 1 is:
- Book
- Get your mind ready
Once you commit to the booking, it's time for part 2.
Part 2: < 1 Year Before
OK, I mentioned that there is no need for excessive training. A regular training is enough. Keep yourself fit.
For this climb, I was also under prepared a bit. These are the preparations I did:
1) Always take the stairs. I can count the number of times I took elevator in the past 1 year.
2) Occasionally climb Penang Hill.
3) 1 trip to Air Terjun Puteri Mandi at Gunung Jerai (Leech nightmare afterwards)
Not much right... but I am relatively fit. So, I recommend you to do a lot of stairs climbing. Cause that is what you'll do most of the time at KK. Also, boost your cold resistance.
And get all the necessities. What is absolutely needed.
1) Windbreaker or jacket. It might get windy and cold at the top part of the mountain. I used my down feather Universal Traveler jacket this time. Don't bring heavy jackets.
2) Head lamp. Absolutely needed for the dark. You'll most definitely die if you don't have this or if you use a torch light.
3) Energy gel, Snickers bar or any bar with super high calories. Don't bring a pot of rice.
4) Track suit and gloves.
5) Medication in case of leg cramp.
6) Running belt with water bottle. This is god send. Those little water at your disposal is a lifesaver.
Some optional stuff
1) Adidas kampung. Regular boot is ok but the lighter and water resistant adidas kampung will make your climb much easier. Leave a comment if you need to get your hand at one of this in Penang.
2) Poncho. In case it rains. I double down with my winter jacket.
3) Waterproof bag.
4) Altitude sickness medication. Consult your doctor if you really need this.
5) Earplug. To counter 500BHP turbo.
Step 2 is:
- Train with a lot of stair cases
- Buy the necessities
Part 3: D-day. Timpohon to Panalaban
The day before... go and stock up some food. This is important if you didn't choose the KK park hostel options as breakfast and lunch are on your own. The next provided meals are 1700 hours dinner at Panalaban. Split the food among the members. Avoid loading the food to one, two members or giving it to the porter. It's a 5-6 hours hike. Team members will split depends on climbing speed and porter usually trail the last team member.
I brought some dried bread bought at the local stores at Kundasang. And clip your toe nails if you haven't already. Also, bring a pack of instant Tenom coffee.
We rent a homestay about 10 minutes from KK park. At Kampung Kiau. On the morning, have some good breakfast. I took 2 cup noodles. A mistake, cause it's not enough. We reached KK park at 0700.
Some hint before the climb.
1) Hire porter. For your spare clothes and stuff. But it's highly recommended to travel light and use the porter only if necessary. Leave your dumbbell in your car. You don't have to waste money asking the porter to carry water. Porter carrying per kg water is more expensive than per kg water sold at Panalaban. Use your running belt water bottles. If that's not enough, throw in some small bottles in your bag.
2) Rent a walking stick or two. Allows you to use arm's strength to compliment your lousy legs.
3) The mountain guide usually sticks with the slowest team member. The climb is pretty straight forward. So if you can go fast, then go fast. You can guide yourself up.
4) You don't have to dress for the cold. The first part of the climb is mostly tropical jungle to aircond like condition nearer to Panalaban.
There are 2 ways up to Panalaban. Timpohon or Mesilau.
Mesilau (I never took this route) is a much more scenic route where you can see a lot of flora and fauna of KK. The gate starts from Mesilau National Park. However today, the Mesilau trail is no longer accessible due to the 2015 quake.
We started at 0810.
There is almost an unlimited numbers of stairs from Timpohon to Panalaban. So, the stairs training is really needed. Probably at this point, the only thing that goes through your mind is, will these stairs ever end.
1) Carson's Fall (~200m). A good waterfall to give you good luck to your climb. Not significant at first but this is the most important milestone on your way down.
2) Kandis (1km)
3) Ubah (1.5km). A long stretch going up from here to the next stop. Get yourself a quick 5-10 minutes rest, break out some energy bar and continue.
4) Low II (~2.4km). Another long stretch but relatively flat.
5) Mempening (~3.4km). A bigger stop is just 600m ahead. Take a quick 5 mins sit and move on.
6) Layang Layang (~3.9km). The major stop. Everyone usually break here for lunch. Whip out your food here and take a quick charge. The vegetation will change starting from here, with more rocky path onwards.
7) Villosa (5km)
8) Paka (~5.2km). Your feet will start falling off from this point as the stone path gets ever more steeper.
9) Waras (almost there). Hampir tidak waras.
10) Panalaban (~5.9km)
I reached Panalaban at 1320. A 5 hours 10 minutes hike. Pretty quick actually. Average Joe will take around 6 hours for this leg. Dinner is served at the Panalaban guest house at 1700. Reaching early means more time to recover through afternoon nap. In the mean time, make yourself some Tenom coffee. It's heavenly under the cold weather here.
After the dinner, it is your leisure time. But I suggest you get all the sleep you can.
Resource at Panalaban is precious. It's expected for food and water to be extremely expensive here. Since those needs to be carried up by porters each day. Even water heater is a luxury so don't expect having a good hot shower while you're here.
Step 3 is:
- Travel light
- Bring just enough water ~1L and enough food to recharge. Excess water is dead weight and will kill your momentum.
- Measure your tracking speed. Average Joe's speed is 1km in 1 hour. Plan your break at stops based on your pace.
- Provide moral support for those who you overtook, and greet those descending. Sometimes they'll share their success stories as well. Micro break for chit chat to lift up your spirits.
- Do not litter.
- Get a good rest at Panalaban. You'll be walking non stop for over 12 hours tomorrow.
Part 4: D-day. Panalaban to Puncak
Hopefully you'll get enough sleep at this point. Try to equip yourself with earplugs to avoid the risk of 500BHP turbos spooling during the night.
You'll wake up at 0130 the next day. Supper is served at 0200. It's recommended for you to start ascending at 0230 to have a better chance to catch the sunrise.
We took off at 0245 due to some technical difficulty.
This part is probably the most difficult part of the climb. There are a lot of steeper mountains and rope actions. As always, measure yourself to the checkpoints.
1) Panalaban (6km). Upon starting, you'll be greeted with the 6km sign. This part has more stair cases. Steeper stair cases. And in complete darkness. You'll rely on your head light and the trail of headlights in front of you to guide your path.
It is almost super scary as you cannot see the head of the light trails and it's super long trail of lights in front. 1km to the next checkpoint, so be hasty. There will be wind hazard as well. Strong cold wind.
So for the next 1-2 hours, it's walking the stairs in complete darkness.
2) Sayat Sayat (7.2km). This is the customs gate to the peak. I reached here at 0420. A little under 2 hours due to heavy traffic. There is a cut off time at this point. I could not remember the exact time but it should be 0530. If you missed the cut off time, you'll not be allowed to proceed to the peak.
Once you passed Sayat Sayat, there will be no more stairs. You'll follow the guide rope to the peak. Picture is on the way down, cause it's 0500 and I can't see shit.
The 7.5km, 8km and 8.5km marker is your checkpoint to the peak. If you passed Sayat Sayat before 0500, you are in the faster group. So don't expect to do much overtaking from this point on. There will be a lot of better climbers overtaking you.
This part of the climb is mostly angled stone path. Not really hard but it's quite tiring due to the massive climb before Sayat Sayat and the thinning air. And it is still dark AF.
The most difficult part is the last 200m. From the base of the Low's peak to 4095.2m. There are a lot of uneven surfaces, a very elevated edges and lots of other people stuck between the stones, trying to find their way up. Climbing skill is really needed now.
It's quite cloudy that day so I didn't get the legendary sunrise. But I still feel accomplished to have reached the top by sheer determination.
Here are the winners! 7 out of 8 of us reached the Low's peak.
Step 4 is:
- Dress sufficiently for the cold + wind. Do not overdress. Heavy jacket will weight like dragging a Kancil in thin air.
- Travel super light. Leave all your bags at Panalaban.
- Darkness is your friend as you can't see when you look down.
- Try to pick up your pace a bit to beat the Sayat Sayat cut off time. Try to aim around 2 hours. Plus minus.
- Aim to reach the peak at around 6am to get the sunrise.
- Enjoy the view!
Part 5: Gong Back Down
Spent a bit of time marveling at the wonders of the world, and it's time to go back down. We left at 0700.
Finally some daylight, you'll get to enjoy all the wonderful views you missed on the way up due to darkness.
And you'll get to see the aftermath of the 2015 quake as well. With debris still scattered around. Loose rocks along the path, broken donkey ears.
The overall descend is much easier as now, gravity is your friend. Just take care of your toes. Once you returned to Panalaban, go have your breakfast.
Remember to pack up your rubbish before leaving.
We checked out and left Panalaban at around 1000, and reached back at Timpohon around 1500. Again a lot of stairs. Progress a bit slow due to rainfall along the way down. At this point, I am tired AF and it's slipper AF When I finally hear the waters of the Carson's Fall, I'm super happy cause the meticulous descend is finally ending.
Go back to the park office, and pay RM10 for your certificate.
Step 6 is:
- Pace your descend. Try to match and beat your climbing time.
- The cut off at Timpohon is 1700. Overtime charges for the park rangers and guides apply if you arrive late.
- Bring your rubbish along with you.
Worth it!
